Thursday, February 4, 2010

How to Locate the Best Shawarma Place


We both love shawarma (actually we love to eat full stop) and were eager to try out the local version. I guess we had expected to employ old tricks like peeking into the store to see if the meat looks like it's been on the spit for days or the chicken looks undercooked - or to check out the number of guests (or lack of) sitting down eating. Possibly we would even have tried to find a place that did not have a menu in English just to avoid the common tourist traps.

In Kuwait, however, there is a much easier way: check if there are nice cars outside with people inside them waiting. Here's why: the good places may be not much more than a hole in the wall or a small store with a few plastic chairs outside but the locals know what's good. And the locals drive really nice cars - big 4x4s or fancy sports cars - that they pull up curbside (to avoid trying to find parking and to avoid walking the 10 steps into the store to place their order) and wait for one of the staff to run out of the store to take the order and bring their food.

I can imagine that in the scorching heat of the summer it's also a question of wanting to avoid to step out of the air-conditioned car but even now when temperatures are below 20 degrees Celcius (68 Fahrenheit) and feel colder I saw a woman pull up outside a Starbucks and honk her horn expecting someone to come out of the store to take her order (they didn't but I guess she figured it was worth trying).

In one of the really popular places the place itself is not more than a few square meters with 2 tables outside but in the weekend I've seen them have something like 4 men outside just to run back and forth to the cars that queue down the road (there's obviously no drive-in like at McDonald's so it certainly doesn't help the already bad traffic jams in that area). Talk about flexible capacity - as they add men to the team they just provide them with a yellow baseball cap to indicate they belong to the store.

Hit the Snooze Button

Today is the first day I've not been waken up by the calls for the first morning prayer from our nearby mosque. To be honest, though, I didn't mind. First of all, I am still fascinated by the singing sound emerging from the loudspeakers and the gentle reminder that I now live in Arabia and second of all, the calls start at little after 5am - to me it's the same pleasure that I get from hitting the snooze button on my alarm clock (which I tend to do way too often) only here I know that I can enjoy at least a couple of hours more of sleep...

My Wish List #1

  • A camel (I think they are totally cute and my husband promised to get me one if I moved to Kuwait with him - although I'm not sure he'll keep his promise...)
  • A pair of really big and COMPLETELY dark sunglasses since I still haven't gotten used to not looking Arab men in the eyes (and my eyes can be seen through my current sunglasses)

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Home Sweet IKEA

There is something reassuring about entering an IKEA store abroad. Not only is it very familiar (we've found IKEA stores in China, Hungary, Germany, and the US) it also feels a bit like home away from home. Partly because half of the furniture we own is from IKEA anyway - and partly because IKEA is largely the same all over the world. Though many would find it hard to believe, it is actually a relaxing experience for me to enter an IKEA store...

Regardless of nationality, culture and religion there are some IKEA phenomena that are always the same - the anticipation of a young couple about to move together visiting the showrooms to see how to make the most of little space, the about-to-be parents browsing the children's furniture section and so on but it is also reassuring in a certain way to see that even here, Kuwaiti men wearing their traditional clothes become like kids when they enter the children's toys section and start playing around with finger dolls and huge stuffed animals much to the joy of their kids.

However, there are a few differences if you look for them (apart from the obvious signs being in both English and Arabic). We usually eat a hotdog when we're shopping at IKEA - if not for any other reason then at least because they are so darn cheap that it would be a pity not to eat one. In IKEA Kuwait you can get a chicken shawarma for 250 Fils (the equivalent of 85 US cents, 60 Euro cents or kr 4.60) but much to my surprise they also serve Swedish meatballs (although certainly not made from pork).

I discovered another difference today when I wanted to make a quick stop at the women's restroom and upon opening the door found that I had entered the women's prayer room (IKEA as well as all malls have separate prayer rooms for men and women). There was a toilet in there as well but with a big sign in Arabic on the door, right next to a list of all the 5 daily prayer times for the month of February depending on the time the sun rises and sets. I had not entered the actual prayer room but come to the part where numerous pairs of shoes were left... I decided to leave as well...

My New Best Friend

Trying to locate an address in Kuwait City can be almost impossible (at least to me). Most often navigation is done according to landmarks such as the big hotels and the huge Western-style malls but when it comes to finding a private address it gets tough...

Briefly explained, each area (covering a couple of blocks) has a name like 'Surra Area' or 'Rumaithyia Area'. Once the area has been identified (which can be tough enough - and it's not included on Google Maps) each area has a number of blocks (Block 1, Block 14 etc. - also not on Google Maps but posted on signs in Arabic when the particular area is entered - see pic below) and then each block has a number of streets (Street 1, Street 8, Street 99).


(Sign of block numbers at the entrance of an area)

While there is some logic to it, try checking out what it looked like when I tried to locate a cultural center where I went yesterday (you can click on the image to enlarge it if it's not already confusing enough):



Or a place I'm going to next week - I can give you a hint: the address to look for is Block 9, Street 99 (on the corner of Street 96), House 1:



Let me know if you find it because I haven't :-) And these are places that actually HAVE addresses - once you go out of Kuwait city, many places are not even listed with an address. Post is anyway not delivered to home addresses but sent either to a company address or to a P.O. Box somewhere.

This is where Mr. Hameed enters the picture. A gentleman from India who has been driving taxis in Kuwait City for the past 25 years to earn a living for himself and his 3 kids back in India and who seems to know every corner of the city - including where we live (which I have also still not been able to find on a map despite knowing the area). In addition to his own taxi he is in charge of another 20 or so drivers that he calls to assist when he needs them - so far I had the pleasure of driving with someone from India, someone from Sri Lanka (who feels he has the most dangerous but only available job since the Kuwaitis drive like crazy) and someone from Pakistan.

I have a feeling I may be paying a bit more than the market price but for a reliable service that I can always call to come pick me up, that has drivers that seem to have no death-wish (unlike other taxi drivers), that has seat belts in the back seat where I as a woman am supposed to sit (seat belts are quite uncommon in taxis run by local companies) and that I know will do their best to bring me home safely, I am more than happy to pay the price!

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Room with a View

Our new apartment will be a temporary home in Kuwait for a month or so. In essence it's furnished, it's relatively inexpensive (when compared to real estate prices in Kuwait - certainly not when compared to prices in most European countries) and it's one of the very few options we had since our civil IDs are still being processed and as a foreigner you cannot rent property (or get a cell phone subscription or a car or a million other things) without it.

I've uploaded a few pics of the view from our small balcony:


Enjoying a glas of mango juice in the midday sun after a few hours of sleep.


To the left: the Marina Crescent (about a 15 min walk away) - it's a yacht marina, a hotel and a bunch of restaurants and cafes (not visible) with outdoor seating. The road is the famous Gulf Road that runs along the entire coast line.


Straight: view of the westernmost part of the Salmiya area.


Right: streets of Salmiya area (sorry, don't know the names yet)

Just in Time for the Morning Prayer

We arrived in Kuwait City in the darkness of the early hours of 30 January, 2010 after a bunch of delayed flights and restless sleep on the plane. A driver was waiting to take us to our temporary home – a place we did not know the exact location of (we had attempted triangulation but been unable to find it on a proper map). We had done our triangulation well – it was pretty much where we had hoped it would be – in the area of Salmiya, one street in from the water (the Arab Gulf as it is known here – the Persian Gulf as it is known elsewhere).
The sleepy security guard let us in and we had just put down our 96 kilos of luggage in our 10th floor apartment and opened the balcony door when the first calls for the morning prayer at sunrise were called out from the nearby mosque.

I stepped out on the balcony and the calls were almost drowned by the loud noise of a fancy motorcycle racing up the Gulf Road at death-defying speed. A beautiful symbol of what is surely to come – the contradictions between the extreme materialism and abundance of oil money - and strong conservative values and Islamic virtues.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Relative Water Conservation


I couldn't help but laugh at this sign above the toilets in the restroom of Istanbul airport... Does it really help save water to flush TWICE? Or is it maybe just that people used to flush 10 times before the sign was put up...

The Birth of My Very First Blog...

This blog was created on January 29, 2010 at the airport of Istanbul while waiting for our connecting flight to Kuwait and the beginning of a new and exciting chapter in our life. I hope you'll check in every now and then to read bits and pieces about our life here in the Gulf region - and please do leave a comment!