The Bustling Dubai Creek

The Dubai Creek is the main artery of Dubai - and is bustling both day and night. It also cuts Dubai in two - Deira to the north and Bur Dubai to the south (although it's all referred to as Dubai as well). We had a long walk along both shores of the creek on the day we arrived and I went back a few times alone so the photos are from different days.

The creek sees all kinds of boats:


(Traditional wooden boat now used for dinner cruises on the creek, the Rolex Towers in the background, Deira side)

...but it's probably most famous for its small abra(s) taking people across the creek:


(An abra taking people from Deira side to Bur Dubai side)

It only takes a few minutes and costs next to nothing (1 AED = $.27, €.20, kr. 1,5) - and it is great for people watching:


(Abra approaching Deira side)

According to the commercial on the roof of this abra, the RTA (Roads and Transport Authority) has won an award for sustainable transport:


(Abra crossing the Dubai creek)

Speaking of commercials on the roof of the abras - there is just everything wrong with this one (you may need to click the photo to make it larger):


(Commercial for whitening cream - on top of an abra filled with very dark-skinned immigrant workers crossing the creek)

There seems to be plenty of people wanting to cross the creek at most times during the day and night - however, during the midday heat it takes a little longer to fill up the boats (and some abra 'chauffeurs' will not leave until the boat is full).


(Men waiting for the abra to fill up and leave, Bur Dubai side)

That means the midday hours can be used for chatting with friends:


(Abra 'chauffeurs' chatting with each other on their empty abras during midday 'siesta')

For sending text messages:


(Abra 'chauffeurs' chatting and text messaging during the midday 'siesta')

Or even better - and a far more popular option - for taking a nap:


(Abra 'chauffeur' sleeping inside his boat - ready to go when the customers come back)


(Abra 'chauffeur' in his RTA uniform sleeping on top of his boat)


(Abra 'chauffeur' sleeping in the midday sun on top of his boat)

But generally the creek is bustling with heaps of abras crossing in both directions:


(The busy Dubai creek with abras constantly crossing)


(The busy Dubai creek with a view of the Deira area and trading boats in the background)

Seagulls waiting for the abra :)


(Sea gulls on the shore of Bur Dubai)

I had certainly never seen this kind of photo in the glitzy brochures promoting Dubai as a holiday destination - but this is what it looks like outside the main tourist areas: busy, bustling, chaotic, with the abras constantly crossing, with the trading boats loading and unloading, with sea gulls and doves everywhere - and with buildings that are not new and fancy high rises for the wealthy. Welcome to 'the real Dubai':


(Dubai outside the main tourist areas)

The trading boats you could see in the background before are quadruple parked on the Deira side, ready to bring all kinds of goods in and out of Dubai - to the neighboring Iran across the Gulf and to many other countries as well:


(Trading boats on the Deira side)

Apparently there is nothing that cannot be transported on these boats (although I hope they don't attempt frozen goods) - television sets in this case, waiting to be manually loaded onto the boat by one of the workers running around on the quay to earn some money offering their muscle power:


(Waiting to be loaded unto the boat)

All kinds of goods lined up on the quay, ready to be loaded:


(Goods waiting to be loaded unto the many trading boats)

When you see the amount of goods and how they are just stacked up on the quay in what appears to be a rather random way - no bar codes here, no inventory management - it's a wonder that they manage to get the right things to the right places (well, I assume that they do - after all they have been trading in this way for ages):


(The chaotic mess of different goods stacked on the quay - seemingly with no system to it, although I am sure they have it under control)


(A man working on his boat)


(Men working on their boats, preparing for the next trip)

I am not sure there is much labor regulation for the trading boats and many of the people working on the boats seem to be living on them as well:



(A man sitting on his boat, Deira)


(A man doing his laundry on the boat and hanging it to dry wherever there is space, notice the suitcases in the background)


(A trading boat at quay and Deira houses in the background)


(Trading boats at quay and Deira houses in the background)


(Trading boats in front of some of the older high rises - and an Emirates plane flying over)

This man accidentally walked into my picture but I quite like it:


(Man by the creek, Bur Dubai)

Laundry day on one of the bigger ships:


(Ship on Bur Dubai side - with laundry hung out to dry)


(The Dubai creek, western end with view of Deira)


(The Dubai creek where it makes a bend - looking towards Deira at the left hand side and Bur Dubai on the right hand side)


(The Bur Dubai side of the creek - where a lot of the museums are located - is very popular for a late afternoon stroll)


(The Dubai creek where it makes a bend - Bur Dubai on the left hand side, Deira on the right hand side)


(The only little piece of sand left in the creek - occupied by the seagulls)


(Men sending text messages, Dubai creek)


(Dubai creek)

All kinds of boats: the abras, the bigger wooden boats used for cruises and the modern yachts.


(New meets old: abras, larger wooden boats, trading boats in the background, yachts meeting on the Dubai creek)

You may have noticed that up until now all the people in the photos have been non-Emirati. There is a good explanation for that: the majority of Dubai's population of 2.3 million is expatriate - only 17% of the population is United Arab Emirates nationals (imagine what it's like to be a minority in your own country?). By far the majority of the expatriate population is low-income workers (although some manage to land slightly better jobs in the tourism industry): 42% of the entire population of Dubai is Indian, 13% Pakistani and 7.5% Bangladeshi. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dubai Indeed, when you walk around the non-touristy areas of Dubai, it feels much more like being in India than in the Middle East.

The Emiratis can be found, however - in the better restaurants at night, in the new malls from the late afternoon into the late night and in the better hotels (for meetings etc.). I spotted this man who had hired a boat for him and his wives (judging from the clothes he could be from another Gulf state as well, though):


(Local/regional family touring the Dubai creek in a chartered boat)

The Dubai creek never sleeps and in the evening many of the boats are lit up - ready to take tourists for a dinner cruise (every single hotel seems to be offering this type of dinner cruise - not sure how many people do it, though).


(Boats lit up at night, Dubai creek looking at Deira side)

I am really happy we got to experience the always different Dubai creek as well and not just the polished, modern Dubai. You will never understand Dubai unless you go see the areas where the immigrant workers live and where all the trading takes place. A fascinating city indeed - and completely different worlds inside one city.

Living A Dream

One of the things on our "things to do before we die" list was to go see the Burj Al Arab. Officially a 5 star hotel - unofficially a 7 star hotel. It has become an icon of Dubai - much like the Opera House in Sydney or the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco - not least because it is built on an artificial island of reclaimed land and is a really impressing structure.

Staying at the hotel is not for everyone - the hotel only has suites and the smallest one is 170 square meters (1,830 sq.ft) spread over 2 floors and includes a living room with lounge, dining room, private bar, guest bathroom, dressing room, bedroom and luxury bathroom with jacuzzi.

From this humble suite it advances upwards until the Royal Suite: 780 square meters (8,396 sq.ft) of luxury - with private elevator, private cinema, dining area, reception lounge, library, master bedroom (apparently with a rotating bed?), marble bathrooms with spa bath and walk-in showers - and probably a handful of private butlers to answer to your every need. Check out pictures from their suites here: Burj Al Arab suites

Rates start at around AED 6,490 per night ($1,766/€ 1,283/Kr. 9.548) - and that's before the 10% municipality fee and the 10% service charge... The rate for the Royal Suite is not available - but I guess that if you need to ask what it costs, you won't be able to afford it!

Another way to experience the Burj Al Arab from the inside is to have an afternoon tea there - certainly much cheaper than staying overnight!! So that's what we decided to do on Saturday afternoon (March 6).

At the causeway leading to the island the Burj Al Arab stands on, there is a checkpoint beyond which people are only allowed if they can present a hotel key or a reservation number for one of the restaurants (you don't just show up here - everything is pre-booked). Once we were let through this is how the Burj Al Arab presented itself on a warm and sunny day:


(Burj Al Arab past the main gate)

As you can see on the picture it's a short walk up to the hotel. Of course people staying there would not be seen walking - they would be driven in golf carts or have their Rolls Royces with chauffeurs drive them all the way to the hotel entrance but we didn't mind the walk.


(Reflections of the white sandy beach, the turquoise sea and palm trees in the facade of the Burj Al Arab)

At 321 meters (1,053Ft) it's really impressive once you come up close:



As you enter the lobby there is a really nice fountain:


(Fountain at the entrance)

There are then escalators leading up to the Sahn Eddar lobby on the first floor where we had our afternoon tea (the picture is taken from there):


(The fountain and escalators seen from the Sahn Eddar lobby)

We got a really nice table by the window - overlooking the causeway and sandy beach to the one side - and the impressive atrium lobby to the other side:


(View of the atrium lobby - as seen from our table)

In those beautiful surroundings - and with outstanding service - it is difficult not to feel a little bit special.

The food was excellent too (you would expect nothing less from a place like this) - with a 7 course afternoon tea menu (who ever heard of that? 7 courses?) starting with yummy sandwiches, hors d'oeuvres and a glass of bubbly:


(First and second serving - yummy!)

Every little detail is thought of - the silver stand is shaped like the Burj Al Arab itself and has cinnamon, sugar, lime, mint, honey and whatever else you would dream of adding to your tea:


(Tea condiments - something for every taste)


(Bubbly on the house)


(Close up of a few remaining sandwiches)

After the sandwiches and hors d'oeuvres it was time for some kind of veal Wellington-style - it was sooo tender I could've chewed it with my eye lashes:


(The Chef carving our next dish)

There was a strawberry sorbet in between and then it was time for an all-time afternoon tea classic: English scones with clotted cream and jam:


(Scones, clotted cream and jam on a silver tray shaped like the Burj Al Arab)

Every detail is gorgeous - like the fresh flowers:





(View from our table - one of our waitresses, the champagne cooler and carving station)


(Reflections in the glass)

You have to imagine, of course, the live music being played in the background - first by an Arabic band with traditional instruments and later by a pianist.

Then it was on to fruit salad and different cakes (from a selection on a tray - of course you need to have choices):


(Fruit salad and cakes)


(Yummy profiterole-style cake with orange filling)

And last but not least:


(Final serving - chocolate covered strawberry, truffles, cookie, nougat and a lemon meringue)

And of course there is gold on the strawberry - it is after all a 7 star place :)


(White chocolate covered strawberry wit gold)

As you can imagine, this is a place where saying no to a customer is a mortal sin and we decided to take advantage of that and ask if we could go upstairs to the top floor Sky View Bar for an after-tea drink. As with all food and beverage outlets you need to have a reservation to get in - but they decided that we could go up and have a bar table (which was just as good as any other table). So we decided to go all-in now that we were there and try out the bar as well.

That was also a good way to get to walk around the hotel a bit:


(Gold and red: the outside of another hotel restaurant located on the first floor)


(Gold and red: the reception of that other hotel restaurant located on the first floor)

And another fountain, of course:


(First floor fountain)


(First floor fountain)

It is quite overwhelming to look up into the atrium - it is so tall:


(Looking up: the atrium with the front of the hotel and the rooms on the left)


(Looking up at the hotel rooms)

The architecture is quite impressive:


(Close up of the hotel room entrances, seen from the atrium lobby)



(Close up of the hotel room entrances, seen from the atrium lobby - the man to the right gives you an idea of the dimensions)

Certainly they did not chose the cheap options when they built this place - it's gold all around (whether it's all real I don't know but I wouldn't be surprised).


(From close to the lifts going up to the Sky View Bar)

Even the doors of the lifts:


(Golden lift doors)

And it sure must keep a lot of employees busy polishing:


(Reflections of a palm in the spotless wall panels/mirrors)

Anyway, we reached the Sky View Bar:


(The Sky View Bar, Burj Al Arab)

We had some of the best cocktails we have ever had (from an impressive drinks list that made it hard to choose). Apparently this first one won an award in an international bartender competition - and it's no wonder. The guy who came up with it still works at the Sky View Bar and was happy to hear that we liked it :)

(Pearl Thyme - a concoction including jasmine pearl tea, fresh thyme and vanilla - it sounds strange but it was outstanding!)


(And of course their signature drink - a Burj Royal consisting of champagne and fresh berries with a pod of vanilla to stir)



The Sky View Bar did not get its name without a reason - it offers excellent views of the world below (the pictures are blueish because most windows are polarized to keep the sun out):


(View of the beach and houses below, Jumeirah area)


(View of the Jumeirah Beach Resort hotel and its marina below - it's owned by the same group - the Jumeirah Group - that owns the Burj Al Arab and other luxury hotels)

Although the view is nice, it is just as nice to see the details of the interior of the bar:


(The ceiling in blue and green)


(The world upside down :) - ceiling reflections of the bar)


(The ceiling reflected on the wall)


(I doubt that anyone ever gets a bill like this - but at least it proves we were really there)


(Details from the entrance of the Sky View Bar - looks like something that was hot in the 1980's)

After we left the bar we took a peek inside their famous seafood restaurant (which we did not try as we were still completely full). It's an amazing aquarium wall that you're sitting next to while eating some of their friends...


(The seafood restaurant, Burj Al Arab, from the entrance)


(Giant Arabian teapot in the lobby)


(A reflection of the Burj Al Arab right outside the entrance)

And here are the hotel cars (to pick up VIPs or those that book more than 3 nights, I believe - but then you can choose between the Rolls Royce and a helicopter for your airport transfer...):


(Hotel car)


(Guest must have a choice - also of color - so it comes in black as well)


(And for the younger clientele)

I know I said earlier that people staying at the hotel don't walk - well, there are always exceptions. Like this guy who was walking around on the causeway outside the hotel in his hotel robe (maybe to show off?). But if you can afford to stay there, no one is probably going to comment on whether you decide to walk around outside in your robe...


(Walking around in his white hotel bath robe...)

The beaches next to the hotel are really nice:


(Beachside, in front of Jumeirah Beach Resort hotel)

And they have beautifully green and lush gardens:


(The garden of the Jumeirah Beach Resort - unusual to see so much green in this part of the world which is full of sand)

...With some exotic-looking bird:


(Bird in the garden of Jumeirah Beach Resort)

To digest, we walked to the nearby Souq Madinat - a newly-built souq area that is built in traditional style but with more upscale shops, restaurants, bars and another hotel. There is a nice view of the Burj Al Arab from there - and you can actually see the Sky View Bar - it is in that free floating horizontal 'finger' pointing out from the top (on the left hand side next to the helicopter platform).


(View of the Burj Al Arab from Souq Madinat)


(Traditional wind tower architecture on the Souq Madinat)


(Inside Souq Madinat)


(Inside Souq Madinat)


(Al fresco dining in Souq Madinat)


(Inside the Souq Madinat)

I know it is next to impossible to capture the atmosphere of a place in a photo but going to the Burj Al Arab truly was a magical experience that I can highly recommend - even if the pictures don't do it justice. Now there is one more thing we can cross off our list - although K claims that he wants to go back and try to stay overnight. Maybe if we inherit an oil well from an unknown Kuwaiti uncle, we'll do that...